The TAPCO G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger is one of the best upgrades you can make to an AK-47. Combat rifles, such as the AK, notoriously have sloppy triggers that require up to 10 pounds of trigger pull. To make it worse, many of the Com-Block semi-automatic rifles imported here have humps on the back of the disconnectors that create horrible trigger slap.
This guide walks you through the process of installing the G2 Double Hook AK-47 on a Romanian SAR-1 rifle. While the particulars here pertain to the Romanian SAR-1, they also apply to most other AK-47 semi-automatic imports, including most Yugoslavian models and Saigas chambered in 7.62×39. This trigger set should fit both stamped and milled receivers. That being said, gunsmithing is required. We do not recommend any of the procedures described here be performed by anyone but a qualified gunsmith.
The first step is to disassemble your AK according to TAPCO’s Instruction Manual. Always unload and clear any firearm completely before beginning disassembly.
With your disassembled rifle, let’s compare the individual components to check for areas that may need filing or grinding for proper fit. First, look at the trigger. At left, we compare the Century Arms trigger as installed on a Romanian SAR-1. Note that on the TAPCO, the rear of the trigger has more material than the Century trigger. Also note the TAPCO trigger uses a larger pivot hole that requires a bushing (included in the TAPCO kit) to slide over the pin.
The disconnector on the Century trigger group has more material on the rear. Why Century decided to cast the part that way is beyond us, but the result is horrible trigger slap. The TAPCO disconnector uses the traditional Com-block design and does not have the extra hump of metal.
Our Romanian SAR-1 has a single-hook trigger design. Because of that, the receiver only has one notch for the trigger hook. We used a Dremel rotary tool and medium stone to grind out a matching notch on the other side of the trigger slot. Be careful while grinding, go slowly and do not apply much pressure—let the stone do the work for you. In the photo, you can see that our stone slipped out of the notch and marred the finish a bit. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a bit more care while grinding could have prevented that.
After test fitting our trigger in the modified slot, we noticed some flashing left over from the mold from which the trigger was cast was interfering with the trigger’s operation. We ground off that bit from the front and back of the trigger, taking a little bit at a time and test fitting between grinds until it was just right.
At that point, we reassembled the rifle to dry fire and cycle the action a few times to check for functionality and reliability. One problem quickly arose; the trigger stuck after being pulled and would not reset. A closer inspection revealed the hooks were sticking in the notches. It was not that the notches were not long enough, but it seemed that the hooks were grabbing on the sides of the trigger slot, as if it were not quite wide enough. So, we disassembled the rifle again and used the
Dremel again to take off a tiny amount of material from the sides of the trigger slot.
After reassembling the rifle again, everything worked flawlessly. Instead of a creeping, heavy combat trigger, we had a crisp, clean one with very little creep. The action cycled well, and range testing showed that the rifle was just as reliable and a lot more accurate.