Throwback Thursday—Choosing a Survival Gun

Trying to determine the best survival gun is a Herculean task I would not wish on the wisest of gun writers, never mind yours truly. In the end there is the easy way out…any gun you can get your hands on is the best survival gun. However, that makes for a rather short and unfulfilling article, and really takes the fun out of compiling the list. That said, here is my list of go-to guns for survival.

SIG P228 Cerakoted in burnt bronze with skulls
The author’s primary carry gun has been a SIG P228 for close to two decades and a gun he simply could not survive without.

The details that formed the situation, logistics and geography you find yourself facing, all play a part in picking a survival gun. In my younger years, I did not select just one. Instead, I started filling categories. My plan was to have a reliable handgun, shotgun, long gun and something “military” to combat the invaders in an all-out assault.

With reliability topping the list, a survival gun ideally needs to handle a steady diet of a common caliber. A cheap caliber certainly wouldn’t hurt most people’s feelings. However, regardless of whether your wallet splits the seams of your pocket or doubles in thickness from the sight of a single Franklin, cheaper calibers are likely to get more range time before the TEOTWAWKI. You’ll also be more likely to have a sufficient ammo stash on hand to weather a survival situation.

Handguns – Semiautos

Stipulating that a 9mm is the minimum handgun caliber for long-term survival, the SIG P228 in a compact frame or a GLOCK 19 would be hard to beat. The weight versus stopping power is ideal. A pistol can be easily concealed, and with a little preplanning, you can expand your options. For instance, swap the P228 or G19 for a similar model in .40 S&W, add an extra magazine or two, the appropriate barrels and your survival gun can quickly be configured to shoot 9mm, .40 S&W or .357 SIG. SIG Sauers cost more, but bring SIG’s legendary ‘To Hell and Back Reliability.’ A GLOCK will run a few hundred dollars less, still offers great reliability, and the money you save can always go toward ammo.

Taurus Judge with black grip and silver frame on a white background, barrel pointed to the left.
Loaded with .45 Long Colt, a .410 shotshell or Winchester’s PDX1 Defender makes the Judge a formidable survival gun.

Handguns – Revolvers

The Taurus Judge is a great equalizer with revolver reliability and the stopping power of a .410 shotshell or .45 Long Colt. The .410 shells will compensate for failing eyesight and splatter a zombie or carjacker’s head poking through your car window. The Judge pushes the limit when you are considering cheap ammunition and truly falls outside of the realm of commonly available in the case of .45 LC. However, for intimate distances, it would be hard to beat. Anyone who has experienced shooting or holding the Judge knows it is not the most ideal gun for concealed carry, but a great choice for a get home bag.


How could you go wrong with a shotgun in a survival situation? It has the stopping power necessary for man or beast when the SHTF. You can fire a load of Buckshot on one shot and slap a pheasant from the sky for dinner from the next. The only change necessary is the selection of shotshells, but a rifled barrel and slugs will bump the effective range of slugs from a maximum of 50 yards from a smoothbore to 100 yards with a sabot.

Who hasn’t owned a Mossberg 500? With over 10 million produced I suppose there are still a few people, but no to worry — Mossberg isn’t finished with the 500 yet!

Common shotgun solutions include proven performers such as the Mossberg 500 in any of its iterations or any of the 30-or-so Remington 870 models. The mere proliferation of the platforms increases the odds of finding spare parts in the event of a catastrophic failure. The cost of ammunition is friendly to the most meager of budgets and probably the easiest, least technical ammunition to reload for a long-term survival scenario.

Interstate Arms Hawk Model 981R
The IAC Hawk closely resembles a Remington 870 with a couple of upgrades and a much lower price tag.

Shotguns are not quite as Lego-friendly as an AR, but they offer plenty of options such as adjustable stocks, tactical forends, pistol grips, extended magazines and a host of sight options. For those with the budget and a thirst for the finest, Benelli’s M2 or M4 would certainly be top contenders, but Weatherby’s SA-459 TR is no slouch and comes standard with a pistol grip buttstock, fiber optic front sight and removable rear sight with ghost ring.


Speaking of ‘Lego-guns’ who could contemplate TEOTWAWKI without a Modern Sporting Rifle at arms length? ARs and AKs feature high capacities, ammunition is reasonable in bulk and spare parts can be easily sourced. The AK-47 is the clear winner in any durability/reliability comparison and tips the ballistics scales in its favor when it comes to stopping power. The AR on the other hand is the clear winner for feats of accuracy, which can be critical in a self-defense situation or an evening of sniping zombies from an adjacent rooftop. For those doubting the effectiveness of the .233 Rem. cartridge, watch a 275-pound whitetail take a neck shot from a .223 some time. No tracking necessary; it will drop in place. The conversation of which model is best has been done ad nauseam; they are all MIS-SPEC so just pick the one that tickles your special spot. I would, however, recommend a .22LR upper for small game and ammo diversity.

Two rifles, wood-grained SKS on top and AR-15 on the bottom, against a light gray background
Ten shots from the SKS or 30 in the AR-15? For defending the homestead either should prove adequate. The author prefers the AR-15 for its accuracy, but is still fond of the SKS.

Up to this point all the gun choices have been common offerings that would serve well in a survival situation, but what about guns that are built for survival? Not just a modern offering, but one of the grandfathers of survival guns such as the Springfield M6 Scout or Henry Arms AR-7. I bought a Springfield M6 Scout back in the mid-1990s. At the time, I got it on a deal and chose the .22 Hornet/.410 combo. The .22 Hornet stings more than the .22 LR, but a little older and wiser, I wish I would have ponied up a few extra dollars and selected a .22 mag/.410 model. I recall growing up on farms when the .22 mag was the butcher’s tool of choice for slaughtering hogs and cattle. The .410 barrel ups the ante in terms of power and offers the versatility of shot for small game or a slug for medium-sized game. The .22 Hornet is simply too rare and hard to find—especially in a survival situation.

However, in the proper configuration, Springfield’s M6 Scout brings its own bona fides and was based on the USAF’s M6 Aircrew Survival Weapon used from the 1950s to 1970s. It fits the bill for a strip-down, bare-bones, purpose-built survival (not a primary fighting) weapon. The M6 does not feature, nor will it accept, any furniture whatsoever. The M6 is all metal and comes either Parkerized or in rustproof stainless steel—save the rubber buttplate, cheek rest and internal ammo storage. The rear sight flips to calibrate the rear peep sight for either the upper rifle barrel or lower .410 barrel.

Henry Survival Rifle
Henry Survival Rifle AR-7

The M6 Scout is a takedown model for packability, stainless steel models are all but impervious to weather and the stock opens to reveal slots for spare ammo. In all fairness the ergonomics are rough and the trigger design is beyond bad. That admission on the table, I can bust clay pigeons lying on a dirt berm at 100 yards in two or three shots. However, too many of today’s shooters are spoiled by aftermarket triggers, enough furniture to shame Batman’s belt and forget we are talking survival—not Beverly Hills survival, but more along the lines of Mel Gibson in the Road Warrior survival.

Henry Arms AR-7

For those who simply cannot survive without a few creature comforts, Henry Arms AR-7 fits the bill of a survival weapon and offers a few upgrades when compared to the Springfield M6 Scout. The AR-7 tips the scales at 3.5 pounds empty and packs down to 16.5 inches with all of its components packed neatly in the stock. The AR-7 has a trigger that is much improved when compared to the M6 and instead of a single-shot, the AR-7 comes with two 8-round .22 LR magazines. The downside when compared to the M6, is of course you are limited in caliber choice and do not have the added power and versatility of the .410.


I am not sure if we are any closer to picking the ultimate survival gun than before we started, and I still prefer a cache of survival guns to choose from depending on the circumstances I am facing. That being said, here is a list of my go-to survival guns. A SIG P228 has been my primary EDC for close to 20 years and I would be lost without it. Today, I would probably swap it out for a GLOCK 22 in .40 S&W with 9mm and .357 SIG barrels. Any of my AR-15s would be ideal for taking game at range or defending the castle. Whether a Remington 870, Mossberg 500 or one of my IAC Hawks, I would have to include a 12 gauge with a red dot sight. Complimenting an AR would be my SKS with a couple of spam cans of ammo. Rounding out the survival arsenal would be a bolt gun—either a Savage Model 10 in .308 or Remington 700 in .30-06. The bolt guns are simple, reliable and ideal for game on open prairies or in areas where bigger game such as bears may be a concern. I admit, not all of my choices were on my list above, but survival dictates you going with what you have available, and all of those are currently in the corner of one of my safes.

There is my list and I am sure I have given you plenty of fodder to poke holes in my logic. Share your thoughts on survival guns and give us your top pick or list and why in the comment section.

The Mission of Cheaper Than Dirt!'s blog, The Shooter's Log, is to provide information—not opinions—to our customers and the shooting community. We want you, our readers, to be able to make informed decisions. The information provided here does not represent the views of Cheaper Than Dirt!

Comments (81)

    1. My choice is the AR15 carbine and 300 rounds of 5.56. It is compact and I can carry a lot of ammo.

  1. I could kick myself I owned one of the early AR-7 . But Now I would got with the savage 42 over&under .22LR/.410 would be my personal pick now.

  2. Ancient argument and one worth having. .If you had 30 seconds to get out and go what would you take from your safe of 50 guns?

    I’d want a pistol, a rifle, a shotgun, but I can only have one! Witch one?

    Many men built farms and ranches with a simple shotgun. It feed their family and protected their doors. It’s hard to beat a shotgun’s versatility.

    Choose one that is not prone to break. A. Win Model 12 or Rem Model 870 or a Browning Citori come to mind.. Simpler, more reliable guns can’t be found.

    That’s what your Granddad did during the 30’s, That’s why that old shotgun you inherited from Grandpa looks so beat up, it was a daily work tool.

    Simplify. simplify, and be at peace always with your neighbor. We will need to stick together.

  3. I myself like the judge and the circuit judge. That way i have a pistol and a rifle that shoot the same ammo 45Lc and 410. I can hunt large or small game. The circuit judge is a very nice survival gun. You put a mix of 45Lc and 410 now you have a party. For the judge put a mix of 45Lc and the 410 PDX rounds you have a great pistol for defense.

  4. Roy – Your words are well made and welcome, however, I believe your points were ones I already made about packing light; deciding what you need to survive quietly, invisibly. I believe I also pointed out how some weapons may be converted for multi-purpose use, such as my 1911 with .22 conversion. My selections were suggestions to meet those conditions. Not meant to limit what others might use. If one has the prep time to take a collection to meet a variety of contingencies, then they can do so. If time is limited, then they will grab less to take. In combat, I have gone different ways for different missions. I’ve left a lot of gear behind in favor of hauling more of something else. I still have my load bearing equipment, and it’s packed to go. Am I going to be constantly moving, or laying in ambush? Where I live, I don’t have to bug out. I just have to batten down the hatches and make it look like there’s nobody home and nothing worth taking if anyone stumbles on my home. There’s only myself to take care of. I can last a long time while the world sorts itself out. Again, thank you for the points you made.

  5. The problem with a Survival Rifle, is the Caliber You Choose. I’d rather have ONE Rifle that can Fire Many Caliber’s, than an AR “Lower” Receiver. Which Requires you to carry Many Different “Upper” Receivers. Which also Translate’s to Weight Carried and LESS Essential’s Required to Survive. And Hunting with a “AK”, is about as useful as a Tricycle in a Bicycle Race.

  6. Just own a nice variety of guns and you can choose the right one, or ones, to fit what you need to survive. You also will need an ample supply of ammo for each firearm you own.

  7. When TSHTF the idea is survival. If at all possible, I want to avoid confrontations and live to fight another day. I also want to pack as light as possible and be able to move fast and quietly. So, for my initial bug out I’ll keep it to survival food and medical, water purification, etc, and limit my weapons to:

    Remington 12 gauge which I can hunt with or defend with. 12 GA ammo is pretty common.

    AR-15 in .223/5.56 with a spare .22LR upper – covers defense as well as small game with low noise to avoid telling the neighborhood you are there.

    .45 1911 always ready. While many prefer the 9mm or .40 and double stack magazines, I’m satisfied with the single stack knock down power of a tried and true 1911 for up close and personal. I also have a .22LR conversion for my 1911.

    While not a firearm, I would also include a crossbow and selection of various usage bolts. They are powerful, accurate, and quiet. For the same reason to use snares rather than shooting small game.

    If circumstances allow, I have a number of other weapons I might take and stash at a base camp.

    If you live where you can have a sound suppressor, I would recommend one.

    Much of my package is the result of combat load out for patrols where you may be out for some time and invisibility will keep you alive.

    1. DaveW, sounds like a great deal of equipment to be lugging about. And a Base Camp? We are not talking about a military operation, we’re talking about surviving the collapse of civilization as we know it. Unless you plan on hanging around and taking the fight to the enemy, whomever that enemy may be, your prime objective is to unass the area and get safe. Only then can you plan on organizing a resistance. Basic variety of weapons, 3 at most, plenty of ammo for each and supplies for 3 or 4 days, perhaps 5-6, until you are safe and can hunt and forage. To test your theory and I’ve done this; take what you consider absolutely necessary on a week-end bug-out. You’ll soon discover what is necessary and what is excess baggage after you hump half a dozen weapons and ammo for each plus months worth of supplies through the over grown reality that will be your escape route when TSHTF for real.

  8. Timely article for me as I’m deciding this very thing for myself.
    I’ve researched the heck out of this issue and IMO my best option will be a Kel-tec SUB 2000 along with glock sidearm. For me it’s small (folds in half), light (4lbs) and probably the most significant feature is that it uses the same magazines as my handgun. So “survival gun” should be backpack-ready, reliable, common ammo and easy to deploy.
    Finally, for those of you that don’t think a 9mm is enough – you might want to ask yourself why you want to shoot elephants anyway.

    1. I have a severe weakness in one arm so the ability to aim and shoot one handed is a must. Therefore my choices are the Mossberg 500 pistol grip 18.5″ in .410 with slugs and PDX1 Defenders. The Kel-Tech KSG 12g with 2 3/4 1 oz slugs in one side and 2 3/4 00 buck alternating with PDX1 Defenders equaling 16 rounds plus 1 round chambered with birdshot as a good warning or invitation in both guns. Then the old fallback is my old school bolt single shot 22lr savage arms. It’s simple, accurate, and quantity of ammo is easy to carry.
      Simply put, I can sling a .410 or 12g as easily as a hand gun and send some artillery 100 yards or close quarters with the flip of a switch. Versatility and power in easy to find loads.

  9. A Remington 700 – 30.06, AR – .556, and a variety of pistols in .40 and .45. For ammo compatability purposes I also aquired a Ruger GP 100 and a Marlin lever action saddle gun both chambered in .357 magnum. It would be difficult to leave the others behind but when the SHTF if I have severe limitaions this is a good choice in my mind. Not only do they share .357 but both can eat ..38 sp, .38+P.

  10. Ok. Here I go. BOB: Kel-Tec SU-16b(it folds & fits), 1911(stopping power). Hunker down: Tavor SAR(compact,5.56,AR mags), 1911, CETMEc scoped (when reaching out is called for). If you don’t have a Tavor then SBR AR. For the exception of the Tavor, all firearms are very affordable.

    It’s always better to have something than nothing so go get something if you don’t have anything! I know, redundant lol

    God speed!

  11. As many point out, the situation demands different approaches. Most people will hunker down, with some succeeding. Some will move early.

    Revolvers are simple, seem to always shoot, and highly reliable.
    Shotguns are simple, and reliable. The sound of a 12 ga going off will deter most would be assailants, causing them to a least consider their immediate demise. Of course, that level of blast may attract certain folk you don’t want to have hunting you.

    maybe more important is the ammunition and caliber chosen. Common calibers will be the easiest to find in other stashes, and downed personnel that you may come across.

    9MM has a large following, so ammo should be available in economic distruptions, etc. Same for 12 ga.

    to that end I have a Saiga 12 bullpup, and we have 9mm handguns. So we’re good up close on the move and hunkered down at home or in a ditch somewhere.

    i spent too many years trying to keep my M-16 clean and from jamming for me to ever consider an AR series action, even tho i know they are much better than back in the day.

    I have to say i love that Saiga Bullpup. Heavy for the size tho, but my days of running after anyone or from anyone are long over. And no jams even after 200 rounds. I couldnt get through 2 clips on that

    Next will be a 308. She has enough punch to knock anything down, and with a few special rounds will take out engine blocks. But i am concerned about ammo if we had to walk out.

  12. My limited money says that every shooter has an opinion that is somewhat different from every other shooter and all are correct. What works for Bill may not be Mary’s choice, but each choice works for him/her.
    But is good to hear differing opinions. Then make your selection. Just know how it operates, how to take it apart AND put it back together and keep plenty of ammo for it.

  13. one should consider the chiappa x series. like the scout a fold up over under survival rifle. the chiappa has a great dual trigger plus you get 8 inserts for every pistol calibre plus .410. I understand you can get now .223 and .308 inserts. best of all worlds and worth considering. cheers from the land down under

  14. As one poster mentioned, on the move and hunkered down are two different targets. Hunkered down I don’t need to consider ammunition weight.

    On the move, every ounce counts every step of the way.

    I carry a mid-sized 9mm as my EDC, along with a couple spare mags for a total load-out of 31 rounds. If I were bugging out, I might toss another handful in a pocket, but honestly would not expect to live long enough to need to reload the magazines.

    Although I own more capable firearms in .308, 9mm, .223 and .22, I’d be interested in knowing what others WHO OWN ONE think about the Ruger 10/22 take down. I’m thinking about tossing one in my BOB (a 65l backpack) along with a suppressor and ammunition to match. My “more capable” .22 is a CZ 455 bolt action. It invented accuracy, but it’s a little obvious, a bit heavy to be toting around and has a relatively slow rate of fire.

    I already owned the Henry AR-7 … two of them, in fact, and just don’t consider them accurate enough to rely on when I have to make the first shot the only shot.I put 20 different .22s through both of them and never found one that shot consistently well* … even scoped (and there is no room for even a small scope in the butt stock).

    If I could put a better barrel on the Henry for less than a kings ransom, I’d buy another one. I’d trade buoyancy for accuracy any day.

    But I’m not even certain that can be done … so I’m asking about the Ruger. It’s not quite as small and light as the AR-7, but they seem to have a decent reputation and would certainly fit in my pack.

    What I want to know is “what happens when you try to hit something with it?”

    * the Aguila 60 grain sub-sonic was accurate enough … about 2 MOA … but would not cycle the action. If I had to take the AR-7, I’d grab a couple boxes of the 60 grain and just treat the rifle as a magazine fed bolt action. That, of course, further limits its already limited usefulness as a defensive weapon.

    1. I have a 10/22 takedown and it “is” my survival rifle. Took it up on small aircraft when I fly in remote areas or it stays in my vehicle. It doesn’t have the stopping power of bigger calibers, but it is a small package, I can easily carry 75 rounds (3x hot lips mags) and a couple of boxes of .22 doesn’t add much bulk nor weight.

      I don’t have any optics as I found it difficult to maintain zero when disassembling, but I’ve improved the sights with fiber optics.

      It’s good for small game and though it wouldn’t be ideal for 2-legged predators, it would beat the .308 I couldn’t carry…

  15. They speak a lot of the M6 Scout but fail to show a picture of one.

    I have one and used it extensively a few years ago to stop the red squirrel population where I was living.
    It teaches you patience during follow up shots.
    I have an old one, the new ones are crappy. They don’t break down without tools, there is a trigger guard that blocks the trigger, there is a safety that in unnecessary, and they are made in the Czeck Republic.

    The trigger is fine and is designed to be used with mittens and bare hands. It has a lever type of trigger for squeezing with mittens and a slight curve in the trigger for bare hand use that you pull like a normal trigger.

  16. Bunkered up and on-the-move are two different sitreps. One requires light and mobile and the other requires what you want as opposed to what you need.
    On the move – S&W AR-15, Ruger MarkII or III bull barrel- 22LR as the ammo for both weps are light an effective for most situations.
    Bunkered up – the list is only limited as to what you prefer.
    As to price – Just what is you life worth – use this as your guide.
    Go to weps for me: AR-15. Sig 7.62×39 – Glock 21 or S&W 357, Mossburg 590a1 9rd shotty. Kriss super-v for close in as it and the glock 21 use the same ammo and clips(25rd). PTR-91FR – 308 is also used for long range – scoped.
    Several configs are good but on-the-run and bunkered are totally dif situations

    1. SmartA_, it’s amazing that after all these years, people who claim to be ‘gun people’, don’t know the difference in ‘clip, ‘as in ‘stripper clip’ and magazine, be it tubular, as under the barrel of some rifles, or box, or detachable box as in that rectangular thing hanging under the breech of your weapon. Blame Hollywood and stupid people.

  17. I know there are pricy guns out there that can have tons of accessories you can add to them if you can afford them…but for the working Joe or retired trying to make ends meet , a good weapon from a proven namebrand company works for me…I bought a S&W AR 15 MP Sport .223/5.56 , added a few inexpensive goodies and paid less than $900. for all of it….I discovered that it shoots just as good , and just as accurate as my friend’s $ 2500. AR with over $1500. In accessories…I’m happy with it and would trust it to defend my home….

    1. @Jaybo1

      I agree completely. I have shot a lot of M4/AR15 platform guns over the years, including using a Bushmaster and a Colt in Iraq while on DoD contracts (the Colt shot great, the Bushmaster not so much). But nothing I have owned or shot works any better than my M&P, and most didn’t work as well.

      I got my M&P on sale from CDNN, and it even included 5 extra mags in addition to the two that came with it. I added a decent red dot sight and some back up iron sights, and a light for home defense and for under $1000 dollars I have a reliable and enjoyable gun.

      A survival gun needs to be reliable, durable and accurate. My M&P is all of those.

  18. It’s nice to have at least two,a rifle and a high capacity handgun. If I can only have one, a high cap handgun like a 9mm Glock, CZ, Sig or other wonder nines with 4 or 5 mags of ammo. Anything more I have to shed and rather carry food and water plus medicine. It’s the end of the world and I have to survive, not get into a fire fight and if a shootout happens, I would rather run and live another day.

  19. In todays market I would stay away from 22 cal because the hoarders have all the ammo. So I would go for the AK 47 there are a million of them around and if you look you can find ammo just about anyplace.

    1. DennyB, that is what makes the .22 such a perfect survival rifle, all of those hoarders with their thousands of rounds of .22 ammo. When they Bug Out, they won’t be able to carry it all. There will be plenty just laying around for the taking. The same with 7.62×39. Use the .22 for small game and the larger for long-range protection and larger game. Handguns are for up close and personal. This is why I have a .45 ACP. It is a proven 1 shot man stopper out to about 15 meters.

  20. To me, you really need several different sets of kit in order to be optimally prepared for different situations.

    1. Home or static site defense: This is for when you can stay in your primary location, or even simply for home defense. In this situation you can pretty much have anything you want. Multiple rifles, shotguns and pistols, thousands of rounds of ammo, lots of supplies, trauma kits, water, solar power options, sandbagged or otherwise hardened fighting positions . . . you name it. Weight and mass are not an issue.

    2. Vehicle Kit: Here you have more options than if you were on foot, but less than in a fixed location. You won’t leave your base unless you absolutely have to, but initially you may go in a vehicle. This has pros and cons, but it is a viable option under certain circumstances. Have everything you need pre-packed in tubs and backpacks. You have to be a bit more selective in what firearms you take, how much ammo, food, medical supplies, and basic life support you can carry. You hopefully have a solid SUV rather than a Prius or some crossover, so you can carry the gear you’ll need and be able to get off the main road where all the sheep are huddled around their Nissons and Volkswagens that are bogged down or out of gas. Here you need a battle rifle, shotgun and handguns with plenty of ammo. A vehicle kit should also include your on foot kit.

    3. On foot: This is where it gets challenging. All you have is what you can carry. Although, it’s wise to have a deer cart, since they are made to be pushed while carrying heavy loads over rough terrain. Now you really have to be creative because weight is a critical factor. How about one long range weapon, but also some carbines and handguns that use the same ammo and magazines to conserve weight and bulk because you need capacity for food, water, shelter, medical care, etc. If you have to bug our by vehicle, the foot kits need to be with you. Hopefully, your vehicle will get you to your designated bolt hole, but if not, eventually you are going to have to abandon your vehicle and go by foot.

    1. Mikial, great comment and well thought out. Now, give thought to the fact that when TSHTF all services will eventually fail. No running water, no gas for heating and cooking, no electricity. While digging in at home, this is no problem. A vehicle becomes problematic, with no electricity, pumps won’t work, so unless part of the equipment is a siphon hose your vehicle will become useless. Too, marauders will roam the highways looking for people in their vehicles. It will be one gun battle after the next with you eventually loosing to a superior force. Despite the limitations of bugging-out on foot, and this is just my pinion, it is the most viable of all choices. It is the one I will take.

    2. @Roy

      Very true. The vehicle is only going to get you so far, and the more you can stay off the main roads the better. Just search for photos of any evacuation traffic jam and that will be obvious. That’s why you take your foot kit with you.

      But, yes, I also agree there will be circumstances when it’s better just to start out on foot if you have to get out. Abandoning your vehicle in the proximity of several thousand stranded sheep and wolves is not a good way to get away in one piece.

    3. Mikial, one of the things I learned in the military and as a PMC/PSC was when things go ‘south’ and you are forced to make a strategic withdrawal, against an overwhelming force, is to travel light [don’t be overburdened by unnecessary equipment that can be replaced], move fast and stay low. If the bad guys can’t find you, they can’t kill you. Unass the area of activity as quickly as possible and leave the sheep and the predators to fight over the left overs. More guns, more weight, slower travel. The only thing you can’t have to much of (well most always), is ammo. If you are a hunter, as I am, food is everywhere and not necessary game animals. Season, even in the winter, nuts, berries, and such will get out of the hot zone, then you can settle down and hunt for pot meat.

    4. Just a quick note for those who aren’t aware of this: most vehicles built within the last 15 years have an anti-siphon valve built in to the gas filler–you can’t just run a hose into the gas tank any more like when I was a kid. You need to get under the car and disconnect the fuel line to drain gas from the tank.

    5. Timothj999, this is true. However if your are intent on taking gas and not too worried about damage, a diamond pointed punch is much quicker. Too, while you are doing this, keep your pistol close at hand incase the owner of said vehicle should discover you taking his gas and object.

  21. Excellent article!

    The SIG P 228 is a fine all around combat/carry gun and among the most reliable handguns in the world.
    Well thought out, good choices.

  22. Deciding what is the best survival gun is a personal opinion and a personal preference, everyone has one, for good or bad. I would absolutely need my 1911-A1 in 45 ACP. And like someone pointed out, if things drag on, you should know how to make black powder, I do. Incase, the issue wouldn’t be powder for reloading, but finding primers to reload with. All the black powder in the world won’t go ‘BANG’ with out a source of ignition. But, I got off track. If I was limited to choosing only one of each, pistol, hunting rifle and an ‘Incase’ rifle, it would be my 1911 A1, a .22 rifle (.22 guns and ammo are to be found in almost every home) and a AK-47, as 7.62×39 is almost as plentiful as is .22. Of course these choices would be subject to change as supplies of ammo dwindled. Over all, the best choice for a survival weapon is the one that is available when you need one. And, incidentally, from my daddy’s knee, I learned to make bows, arrows, and chip arrow heads even from broken pieces of glass.Guns malfunction, ammo for guns runs out. Ammo for a bow is on every tree.

    1. Well said, Roy and a great article over all. In the end – and I’m not talking TEOTWAWKI – it boils down to the best defense/survival weapon being the one you’ll always have with you.

  23. No one gun will fill the bill or at lease not for me. I’m a member of the “over the hill gang.” Also, I have some health problems where by I’ll not be able to bug out. So, don’t you think survival shooting irons will be custom selected as to cal., gauge and etc.? Lastly, no one gun will do the job unless you can only afford one gun and ammo.

    1. @ bullet

      I suspect the rifle was design for buying just enough to get started and “Scrounging” the rest as you go along. In everyday survival, Barter, Trade, Steal. Whatever works.

  24. There one I saw for about $620.00, called the Chiappa X-Caliber wich has barrel inserts to fire the following calibers. .22LR, .380APC, 9X19, .357Mag, .38Spc, .40S&W, .44Mag, .45ACP, .45LC, .410-Gauge, 20-Gauge, 2-3/4″-12-Gauge and 3″-12-Gauge. Kinda impressive.

  25. Liked the article, but….think the author drifted away from the topic of ‘choosing a survival gun’ to lobbying/promoting certain manufacturers pieces.

    1) Everyone should be able to use a hand-gun well enough to fight their way to a rifle….period. Picking a handgun you shoot well and can stop an attacker with one shot is critical….if you need to ‘double-tap’….well, you need to practice more. If all you shoot well is a .22 mag, then so be it, but shoot it very well and get to your rifle.

    2) I love shotguns for self-defense and for providing dinner. They are the ultimate man-stoppers. That said; If you need a shotgun, they are too damn close! And then you pray there is only one of them. If you can shoot them with a shotgun, then they can shoot you with anything. Get a decent;

    3)Rifle. This is an imperative that your survival hinges on….PERIOD.
    The rifle can create ‘stand-off’ distances between you and aggressors, that allows for a lone shooter to hold off superior numbers. This is critical during the initial engagement, and will determine the survival of you and your loved ones, in those first crucial moments. Again the issue should not be ‘platforms’ or lego-land add-on toys. While they can and do have some usefulness, in an EOTWAWKI situation, how long are you going to have all the batteries to operate all the gizmos and gadgets? Select a rifle you shoot VERY well, and you can operate effectively PAST 300 yards. If you cannot push them back beyond 300 yards you will find yourself and loved ones the victims of ‘fire-superiority’. In other words, they will be in range to utilize their hi-cap mags to effectively keep your heads down, while others advance. You need to be able to push them back and push them with authority! Practice your ‘rattle-battle’ shooting often, despite the expense, it is crucial. If you do not know what ‘rattle-battle’ is you need to find out and learn. It will determine how long you survive superior numbers who think they are entitled to your stuff.

    4) With every firearm you select, you NEED to learn how to operate it effectively DAY OR NIGHT without gizmos! This cannot be overstated or repeated or engrained into your brain enough. If you and yours are actually going to survive, good iron-sight, re-active, instinctive marksmanship is what will determine the longevity of your gene-pool….. not the price of your ‘night’ scope. While all the toys may help you survive the initial SHTF days, those ‘days’ could draw out to months, then years. Put your hard earned $$ into what will last for years. If you have some discretionary income for gadgets….that’s great. But, finance the long haul first, as it can also carry you through the initial days, IF you’ve honed your skills.

    5) Don’t discard black-powder options. Learn how to make BP, learn how to use it to reload shotgun shells, (yes, it works in pump-guns quite well, do NOT try in autos!) It also works in all center-fire revolvers. If things drag into years, you will learn how to use it in rifles as well. If the EOTWAWKI drags into years, there will be few survivors who do not know how to make and use BP or lead bullets for use in a larger-bore rifles. (larger caliber bullets provide the best stopping power for BP firearms, as there is only one velocity….slow, lol.)

    My two cents worth, ignore at your own peril, I do not really care. My gene-pool WILL survive, guaranteed. What about yours?

    1. Well spoken Norge, I feel as you do, learn the basics and practice the basics, gizmos are fine while they last, knowing how to use your weapon without the gizmos and being proficient is much more important..

    2. Norge, Rod, in total agreement. Survival is making do with what you have and what you can obtain by what ever means. Know your strengths and work on your weaknesses.

  26. What about 7.62×51?? Lots of that laying around. Conversion kits?? So your going to haul all that around with you and ammo too? I’d guess that if your bunkered up that these choices might be more viable but finding the time to change out parts and ammo when you need them might not be there. It just dosnt make tactical sense to me. It just dosnt seem to be the logical, common sense course from my POV but my plan is likely quite different from yours. If your mobile and not bunkered up it seem to make even less sense. I think that choosing platforms that one has the greatest potential of scrounging common munitions for in the surrounding enviroment is indeed a good idea. There’s a lot to be said for the Rimfire ammo and platforms and that includes the .17 HMR and its little brother too.
    Maybe your interested in a first rate .22LR auto loader pistol? Take a look at Ruger’s 22/45 UltraLite with the threaded barrel, iron sights, this platform weighs in at 1lb, 4 oz out of the box. Add a GemTech Outback II Supressor and that jumps to 1lb, 7.5oz add 10 rounds and your still well under 2 lbs.. Choices, all about choices. Point is don’t get locked in to an idea just cause. An open mind, making flexable decision, .thinking out of the box. The first 78 hours are critical in the short term survival envelope and did decent than the longer term conditions which may have other requirments and needs. Think it thru just don’t over think it.
    Weight, and bulk becomes a real isssue real fast … Weapons, ammo, water, food, extra batteries, flash light, knifes, raido, stove, fuel, GPS, raido, firstaid, cloths, sleeping bag, shelter . . . . .its not just what platform(s) and munitions you choose. It’s your other choices and how you plan to do what your going to do and not just plan A but B & C & if needed D too. Oh well…. Plans and choices …

  27. I completely agree with the glock theory. With a couple of barrels and magazines a glock 40 can be made to shoot several different calibers, and availability of extra parts( almost 60% of law enforcement use glocks) and ammo should be great. The rifle is a little more confusing, but still 5.56 is used by all nato countries and 7.62×39 by almost all others. So again parts, and ammo availability, and 22 conversion for 5.56 makes for a good plan. With some of the new take down Ar’s they make for a really compact package with a rifle and pistol. A shotgun is always good but ammo is heavy.

  28. I thought this ws a pretty good list all things considering. But they are all the same. No one ever defines what one means by “survival.”

    For me, it means a rifle that is the lightest and most accurate. That would be a 22 mag with either a 4X scope, or a peep sight.

    The 22 mag is just a handy as the 22lr, but with significantly more power. And, my rifle, a Savage bolt action, cost about $179.00 brand new.

    The 22 mag is a true survivalist’s round.

    That and a recurve bow if you are a bowyer or an Excalibur crossbow if you don’t shoot the bow would be ideal.

    1. @Faultroy,
      Like everything else the term “survival” as it might define a tool likly has nearly as many definitions as there are people trying to define what it is that makes …well, anything …. A survival tool.
      I think we can possibly agree on several general parameters however.
      A) ANY, So called “survival” tool (ST’s) is defined by the individual who will be using it. Everyone see’s these ST’s thru the eyes of thier needs, requirments and environments in which they may have to subsist in in a critical situation.
      B) a case might be made for any firearms platform to be an ST. These are highly personal choices at any time and should not be looked at by others as wrong or “stupid”. That kind of snob attutuide serves no ones better interest. Don’t be snotty just cause you don’t like someone’s choice, make a suggestion or better yet ask WHY they made that choice. One might learn something worth knowing from such a question or have a helpful suggestion to make.
      C) EVERYONE will have a number of ST’s in common First Aid Kit, Flashlight, BackPac, Sleeping Bag, Micro Stove, Pocket Knife, MultiTool and so forth. Maybe we should be having these discussions based more on supporting viable, sustainable, common sense choices by looking at the regions where each of us live, work and for the most part will have to subsist if we find ourselves in a “survival” situation. Cause what’s a good survival tool in say the back woods of Georgia, may or may not be a good ST in Alaska.
      Just seems to me that we should listen a bit more instead of being so quick to diss another’s choices or push our own idea of what’s “best”.

      I figure that regardless of what level of Prepper you are . . . (and don’t kid yourself if you are part of this dicussion or even think in terms of anything with the word “survival” in the same sentence, YOU are a Prepper!) . . . that we all have something to learn from everyone else. That there is no BEST but there are a lot of Good Ideas.

      On the page one comments of this blog I copied a short and general list of ammo weights and amounts. That’s worth a look when you have to consider humping quantities of munitions around.
      Anyway, I think we’er all in need of a reality chech when it comes to information and how we see it and use it.

  29. Long term survival requires you to have what you need on you to assure food the only thing that makes sense is a 22 plus water tablets. You can carry 1500 rds of 22 try that with any other caliber. Head for the hills boys and gals the urban setting requires a tank plus ammo dump.

  30. I have always preferred the 1911 A1 for self defense. It is reliable and has good stopping power. I have a Springfield 1911 and have never had problems with it.

  31. Arthur Raynolds

    In .410 its, ~7 yards for the 3″ barrel pistol, ~25 yards for the 6-1/2″ barrel pistol and ~55 yards for the 18-1/2″ barrel carbine. I could have been more accurate, but I didn’t want to spend all night doing the math!

  32. With the Tuarus Judge, what is the range of potencially stopping a target with a LC HP? Using a .410 Slug? With .410 Personal Defence rounds and finally say # 6 shot?

    BTW, is your math problem using Common Core Math?

  33. I don’t think there is an ultimate survival gun. To have one requires everyone be the same. Age, physical condition, location, training and experience dictate different choices. For my wife it’s the G19, for my oldest son it’s a Ruger Ranch Rifle in 7.62 x 39. HIs wife is a Sig Sauer P226 9MM. For my middle son it’s a Sprinfield XD40. For my youngest son it’s an AR-15 in 5.56. His wife a G26. My oldest grandson is an M1 Carbine, youngest grandson is a Ruger 10/22 and my grandaughter is a Ruger 22/45.
    My wife and I are more bug in than bug out and mine is a Remington 870 and a Springfield 1911 in 45 ACP. These are based on personal preference which is of course a reflection of experience, comfort, confidence and ability. My nephew would be a brace of custom over under 12 ga shotguns. He’s an accomplished trap, skeet and sporting clays shooter but has never fired anything else. I wouldn’t want him oppossing me with them.

    1. Hey Brass,
      I don’t think that the discussion is about an “ultimate” survival firearm because as you state there is no such thing only personal choice. I might suggest that as each member of a family have a different personal choice such as yours, that it might be important that each person learns to be at least component with those other platforms that may be around them. Training, practice and knowlage are of more importance in the long run than a single platform. Knowlage is power and creates oppertunity. Just saying.

    2. I would think that most folks would be better off in a “Bug-In” scenario, rather than a “Bug out”. Unless your home is in danger of fire, flood, nuclear detonation, etc. as soon as you leave, you will have to leave 90% or more of the stuff you have spent your life acquiring. You also put yourself in the category of refugee, at the mercy of whatever government agency decides to help or hinder your situation.

      In the event of a localized “Survival” situation, your response would be much different than a total teotwawki. In the localized situation, theoretically ATM’s in other states would be working, bank computers would be up and running, and food, etc. would be available at another site. In that case, your only real need for arms/ammo would be what you felt were necessary to get you out of your current danger zone. Some concealed carry handguns, and maybe a carbine or shotgun in the family van.

      In the event of a teotwawki, your home might still be your best bet, until you are driven out. Without a survival retreat, heading out for the hills, puts you at a danger level that most folks can not even imagine. Once you run out of gas, how long will the food/ammo/ medicines that you have in a bugout bag last, realistically?

      If your are getting on in age, say, you and your spouse are in your 60’s, 70’s or older, how long would you last humping your belongings out in the forest? My wife and I would not last too long out in the wilds, due to our age, so our choice will be to Bug in as long as possible and protect what we have.

  34. While actually not a Survival Gun, unless the weapon you carry in aiding in your survival. I would include the de Laisle .45ACP Bolt-Action
    Paratrooper/Commando Carbine as part of my personal survival weapons of choice.

    1. Hey Guys, when TSHTF ; If you have any sort of military training common sense will kick in; Grab a couple of 45’s a good knife and a long range rifle.
      My choice of side arms are the old reliable colt 1911’s and a SFGlock 30. As for a long range rifle the remington 270 is more than sufficient and dont forget the scatter gun. Every body has their preference of weapons but not all have the survival skills needed.

  35. The AR-7 Henry is not reliable as I found out. Survival all depends on urdban or rural? 9mm or .45 is certainly not going to stop a bear or drop a deer. Shotguns and rifles would be inconvenient indoors at close quarters. The Ruger 10-22 takedown is great for backpacking and you can drop small animals for food. But, that isn’t for defense against an intruder high on drugs. If you are going to stand against a grizzly you should have a 12ga. or a large enough hunting round (.357magnum or .44magnum) but even with large pistols, your shots better be well placed. (.44 would be like a 30-30 rifle and I would not want to face a grizzly with a 30-30). Then you have the consideration of the shooter…well experienced having fired tens of thousands of rounds or a novice who forgets where all the safeties are on an auto pistol? (1911 has 4). Would you remember them in a stressful situation? If not, you should get a hammerless revolver that requires no thinking to just point and shoot). Regardless of what you choose, if you don’t shoot it thousands of times, practicing getting it, pointing it at the target and hitting to stop the threat, you could find yourself hesitating long enough to lose the battle. Then there is the traing in to knowing what is a threat and what is not; determining that within split seconds. Also, consider your bargain basement gun and realize that you are trusting your life to that inferior material or workmanship. You can’t skimp on quality when your life is on the line. If the gun jams once, it may be your life. Get one small enough for you to handle without becoming prone to flinching but large enough to do the job.

    1. A deer can be taken down with a 22 LR, So a 45ACP at close range should also be able to take down a deer. A bear is a different story. The rumor is if you attempt to go bear hunting with a 44 Mag you save the 6th shot for yourself. Some people have told me if you plan to go bear hunting with a pistol either a 454 Casull or larger. I would not recommend either. A 45 LC can be loaded hotter than a 44 Magnum. A 41 Magnum although not as popular as the 44 has ballistics that are superior and it will out penetrate the 44 Magnum. The 44 is more popular due to Dirty Harry. I have heard a 22 LR with the correct shot placement in the eyes or mouth will take down a Bear. Pistols with a shot cartridge in the eyes of a bear will probably blind it A friend of mine would carry a pistol with shot filled cartridges when he went out camping.

  36. I think the 8-mil Mauser is worth consideration, it has the the stopping power of the 30.06sprnfld. round. And half-again the range of the 7.62×51 Nato round.

  37. I am surprised that no matter where I read blogs or articles, no one ever considers EAA (Tanfoglio). My witness chambered in 9mm is extra reliable, easy to conceal, and nice to look at. Not to mention only has 5 ft lbs of recoil which makes it easy to put a couple of hundred rounds thru in a single session. Also, 17 rd clip is nice to have. Parts are easy to get and inexpensive, and it can be converted to a large variety of calibers. I love mine and shoot 1″ groupings constantly. Definitely worth looking at. On another note check out to get info on almost any handgun before you make a selection so you know what you can handle before you buy. Thanks for reading!!!

    1. Hey Jermaine,
      I had considered the EAA in 10mm some time ago when looking for an additional 10mm. Had the oppertunity to put one thru its paces and was pleased with its overall results. Didn’t choose the EAA but not because it wasn’t acceptable. Got a Delta Elite from a devorice sale at a very reduced price instead. I don’t know why they arn’t considered more often. It may be because of the asking price and the fact that its not well know in many circles. For the same $ or less one can aquire an XD or Glock, even a Rock Island 1911. Your choice is solid and as long as your comfortable with it that’s al that really counts!

  38. In every survival scenario I play out in my head being highly mobile seems to be key. I know from experience any time you try to move a massive number of people out of a city that nothing moves and you wind up sitting in one place for hours. Add panic into that situation and if you are not prepared to bug out on foot you will probably die. With that said IMO the best survival weapons are those that you can carry on your person. This pretty much rules out large caliber rifles and shotguns. While I agree that a 12 gauge is very versatile you are not going to be able to carry enough ammo on your person for it to be helpful for very long. Once you are out of shells you would be better off with a baseball bat. I chose a .40 cal semi auto pistol for personal defense and a Smith and Wesson M&P 15-22 for these reasons. You can carry literally thousands of rounds without being overburdened for the .22lr and take small to medium sized game and engage targets out to about 150 yards with it.

    Just my two cents.

    1. Hey Noc, deffently something worth considering and I think often overlooked. Great catch.

      Using an average and at ,pproxamently, 3.6 pounds per 100 round (depending on bullet weight and so forth) 1000 rounds would be around 36 pounds of weight. That’s a fair amount . . . .

      Pulled this from another blog so can’t attest to its accucery but it seems to be fair representation of Weights an Measures where munitions is concerned. I think its fair to say that one might wish to consider the weight and amount of ammo one may wish to carry with them for their choice of survival weapon!

      That .22LR seem to have a lot going for it!!!

      Pistol Calibers

      Rounds per pound: 47.06
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 2.13

      9mm Luger
      Hornady 115gr JHP/XTP
      Rounds per pound: 38.10
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 2.63

      .38 Special
      Rounds per pound: 34.78
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 2.88

      Remington UMC 125gr SJHP
      Rounds per pound: 30.77
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 3.25

      Handload 158gr JHP
      Rounds per pound: 28.07
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 3.56

      Rounds per pound: 28.07
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 3.56

      200gr Hornady XTP HP
      Rounds per pound: 22
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 4.57

      240gr LSWC Bullet
      Rounds per pound: 19.7
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 5.07

      230gr Winchester Ball
      Rounds per pound: 21.33
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 4.69


      .22 LR
      Remington Golden 36gr PHP
      Rounds per pound: 133.33
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 0.75

      (milsurp) British Radway Green SS109 63gr
      Rounds per pound: 37.21
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 2.69

      30-30 Winchester (a.k.a. .30WCF)
      Winchester Silvertip 170gr flat nose
      Rounds per pound: 20.28
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 4.92

      75gr Hornady V-max Handloads
      Rounds per pound: 22.22
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 4.5

      .308 Winchester
      Remington UMC 150gr FMJ
      Rounds per pound: 19.05
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 5.25

      .308 Winchester
      168gr BTHP Match Bullet
      Rounds per pound: 18.67
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 5.35

      7mm Remington Magnum
      Winchester 175gr Power Point
      Rounds per pound:14.68
      Weight per 100 rounds(lbs):6.81

      Wolf Steel Case 122gr FMJ
      Rounds per pound:27.59
      Weight per 100 rounds(lbs):3.63

      Shotgun Calibers

      12GA 2 3/4″ Slug
      Federal HI-Shok Slug
      Rounds per pound: 10.53
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 9.50

      12GA 2 3/4″ #4 Shot
      Remington Express 4BK
      Rounds per pound: 9.30
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 10.75

      12GA 2 3/4″ #7 1/2 Shot
      Federal #7 1/2 Shot
      Rounds per pound: 10.53
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 9.75

      12GA 2 3/4″00 Buckshot
      Federal Express 9 Pellet
      Rounds per pound: 9.76
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 10.25

      12GA 3″ Slug
      Federal 3″ Rifled Slug
      Rounds per pound: 8.89
      Weight per 100 rounds (lbs): 11.25

  39. It appears that everyone has a pretty good handle on their favorites and what they’re comfortable with. There are some guns here that do not have a good reputation for dependability. I’m not here to pick on anyone’s favorites, but make sure you do your homework before you settle into your bunker so you know potential problems.
    Even the worlds most popular handgun has reports of overpressure cracks in one model.
    The only other suggestion I would make is that every personal arsenal should include a good wheel gun. You can always depend on a good revolver to go bang and it will eat anything you feed it. Give it some thought.

    1. McR,
      You can’t fault the logic of a wheel gun or two someplace in this cornucopia of choices and survival “should” or “must haves”.
      What are your thoughts on caliber in this regard?
      Without having given it a lot of thought I should tend towards a selection that would include a .22LR/.22mag, perhaps a .38/.357/9mm, maybe.45LC/.410 ….. Or something along those lines. To further the conversation I would suggest only Stainless Steel platforms. Between Tauras and Ruger there is a nice cost efficient spread of choices and of course a The Judge.
      Having taken a look at the wheel guns currently in my collection there is a .22lr/.22mag, a Blackhawk .41 mag, Ruger 100 in .357, a Taurus RB in .454, and a Judge. Only a couple of these would fit the “survival” category the others not so much.
      Would be interested in your take ……

  40. LOL!!!! Dave, I think you can now check off “Write a blog about the best survival guns” from your writer Bucket List! was a fun read, fair to excellent choices and had just the right amount of CYA to not get your head bitten off! may be the best middle of the road write up ive read on this subject!

    I know that you are a Sig and Glock fan from past writing so I would be remiss if I didn’t suggest that the Springfield XD, XDm’s and XDs series would be as well received, cost effective and reliable as your two favorites.
    I’d add a SOCOM 16, and perhaps a .300 or .338 bolt gun, and maybe one or two of the higher end .17HMR or .22 Mag offerings to the remainder of your list as well.
    I think that one might also consider calibers that may be reloaded easily too….. but that may be another blog altogether.
    I enjoyed this read very much!

  41. @ RIFLE Choice(es).

    Berretta BM-59 Mk. 1A Para (Paratrooper Model w/Folding Stock), 7.62x51mm Nato and 20-rnd. magazine. or Springfield .30-06 (7.62x63mmSprnfld.), Tanker/Paratrooper/Garand.

  42. @ Anyone.

    Consider the REX Zero-1 (Slovenia) 9x19mmParabellem/Luger, Semi-Automatic Pistol. It’s a Sig Sauer P226 Clone Copy, made of AISI-SAE 01 (RC) Tool Steel. Three different colors: Black, Earth Brown and O.D. Three different Models: Standard, Combat and Compact. Three different Magazine available: 15-rds., 18-rds. and 20-rds. Starting Price: ~$499.00 USD. Website address UNKNOWN, as of this posting.

  43. When writing for Shooter’s Log, you need to check out the CTD warehouses. I see Chiappa’s Little Beaver in .22 mag, their Little Badger in .22 mag/410, the Savage 42 in .22 mag over 20 gauge, etc. There’s also a nice Rossi – if I remember correctly – in a .44 magnum. All of these deserve examination and evaluation, too…

  44. I’m in the process of doing all of the above in article…


    40 cal

    12 gauge

    AR 15

    2 of each…

    6000 rounds

    Then whatever the budget allows… A kel-tec shotgun… + a sig p250 would be nice… 9 & or 40… Not sure yet.

    If the above don’t do it, then an Abrams M1.

    1. @Steve,
      Do you by chance already have either a Mossberg 500 or a Remington 870??? If you do may I suggest you Google “Bullpups Unlimited” and check out their stock kit for these two platforms. Could be an alternative in your shotgun category.
      I might also suggest something in the .308 to .338 caliber range in a bolt gun and just to round out your list either a .50BMG Barrett or a .416 Barret…… along with a Patriot Missile Battery for good measure! 😉

  45. I have a Rem 7400 Semi-Auto in .30-.06 with 5 rnd. factory/10rnd’s from brownelles and 20 rnders from D & E mags from yrs. ago. Take the 10n’s and weld them together for some 20’s. Mossberg 500, S & W riot 12 ga. steel, rem1100 semi sluged barrell and optics mounted, 270 win bolt, various handguns and a mac 10 bullet hose, so to speak. Which 2 shall I choose.You can only shoot one at a time anyway. Oh yeah a 10/22 w/25 rndr’s and flash hider, 1911 .45/ .22 conversion and a diamondback .22 & colt python 6″ .357. s & w 1955 tatget rev. in .45 acp 6″ barl.

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