About half of the students in my training classes use a revolver. The revolver is not immune to malfunctions, and a good quality revolver is as reliable as a machine can be. The subject of revolver speed loads comes up often, and most of the time the speed load is done half right or incorrectly.
What follows is the proper way.
The Right Way
It is true the revolver may be replenished from a cartridge loop after firing only one or two rounds and for this reason some users deploy spare ammunition in a loop rig and also carry speed loaders.
- When reloading quickly, the cylinder is emptied regardless of how many cartridges remain in the chambers.
- After the revolver is fired empty, the strong hand transfers the revolver to the non dominant hand (in my case this is the left hand). In doing so, the strong hand first hits the cylinder release.
- The weak hand palm rides over the trigger guard and the fingers press the cylinder open, while the thumb strikes the ejector rod.
- The muzzle is pointed straight up to avoid a case-under-the-ejector malfunction as the spent cases are ejected.
- The strong hand draws a speed loader from the strong side carrier as the weak hand orients the muzzle of the revolver toward the ground.
- The speedloader is moved to the cylinder, the cartridges inserted, the device twisted, and as the cartridges fall into the cylinder, the speedloader is dropped.
- The thumb of the support hand presses the cylinder shut as the strong-side hand grasps the handle, and you are ready to fire again.
The problem often lies in education. Students are taught to:
- Grasp the speed loader by the knob.
- Insert five or six wobbly cartridges into the cylinder.
- Twist the knob.
- Drop the speed loader.
The proper technique in a real world speed load is much more sure:
- Grasp the speedloader as if you were palming it.
- Extend the fingers to the end of the cartridges.
- Guide them into the cylinder (I guarantee you the speedloader will be dropped if you are in a critical incident and attempt to hold it with two shaking fingers).
- Grasp the speedloader with the fingers controlling the cartridges.
- Press with the whole hand.
- Twist the knob after the cartridges are well into the cylinder.
- Keep the muzzle of the revolver oriented toward the ground. The speedloader will fall away as the cylinder is closed.
- Do not practice being gentle with the speedloader or it will slow you down in the real world.
Teaching Moment
Many have mentioned that an advantage of the revolver is carrying it in a coat pocket. The light revolver such as a Taurus CIA .357—one of my favorites, loaded with the Hornady Critical Defense load—is light enough and well balanced. If you must fire quickly then you can shoot the bottom out of the pocket and connect with the bad guy. You should practice very carefully. Draw the weak hand away as you bring the gun hand up and fire.
It might be a good idea to visit the local Goodwill and purchase a $4 jacket—just saying. The tweed coat will suffer otherwise. A shrouded hammer is required, although by keeping the thumb over an exposed hammer you can usually perform this drill.
Have any stories to share about speedloading your favorite revolver? Share them in the comments below.
[bob]
Well, I had wanted Speedloaders for most of the years I’ve had that Colt, and just got around to getting them last year. Over the years I had a S&W Military/Police, I think it was called. The predacessor to the Model 10. Mine was nichol plated, 4″, with fixed half moon sights. It had the large checkered S&W grips, and lived in a dark tan Bianchi basket weave holster. DAMN, why did I get rid of that gun? It would have been interesting to see how Speedloaders worked in that gun, but most of my experience has been with single action revolvers, so I’m very curious to know if anyone else has, or did have this same issue, and with which model gun.
I just bought some speed loaders for my revolver, so I am anxious to try out these techniques. Thanks for sharing your experience with the rest of us.
My 1917 M&P works the same as Bill from Boomhower described. If I try to fully insert the rounds the loader is hopelessly jammed.
Hey Bob, thanks for your service, and all the books you’ve written look very interesting, it makes me want to have a copy of each. I’ve been primarily a bolt action hunter, and revolver man for thirty five plus years, but in the last year or so, have gravitated toward an AK, a Girsan 1911, and two Springfield XDs handguns, just for home defense and personal conceal carry. However, in late summer of ’88 I bought a new Colt Agent. Probably in stock at the gun store since ’86. I kept it original until a couple of years ago, when I finally replaced the small walnut ‘D’ frame grips with a set of Pachmayr rubber grips (model CD-C). Big improvement in comfort, Hell it felt like a whole new gun. Then, I purchased two HKS speedloaders (Sportsman’s Guide Stock No. A4A-3079). They have (DS) stamped on the end of the knob, I presume for Detective Special…….I lost the original packaging. Anyway, when using the speedloaders, they tend to bind up without fully releasing, unless I only get the rounds started less than halfway in, then twist and jiggle the loader by the knob very aggressively. It’s never a consistant manuver, and you have to consciously do it the same way every time. Kind of like spinning a jack, or top. These are 158gr round nose handloads, nothing hot, just a couple grains of Unique, and normal seating depth. It just seems like the cylinder ought to swing out just a tiny bit farther. I haven’t tried putting the stock grips back on, but the Pachmayrs don’t seem to be an issue, they’re close, but never touch the shells, or loader. Have you had similar experience with any revolvers, or loaders? Are the Agents and Detective Specials just that way? I really still like the little gun, I just wish Crimson Trace would offer a set of laser grips for it. I also think occasionally about bobbing the hammer. Thanks again.