Firearms

American Tactical Introduces Omni Hybrid AR Lower

American Tactical LLC is using a fiberglass-composite polymer over a zinc metal insert to give extra strength in the high-pressure sections of the company’s new Omni Hybrid AR-15 lower receiver. At an MSRP of only $49.95, the Omni Hybrid stripped lower is one of the most cost-effective multi-caliber lowers on the market today.

“The Omni Hybrid lower has gone through all the pressure and weight-bearing testing of a traditional aluminum lower with flawless results,” says Joe Calabro, director of marketing for American Tactical. “We feel like this new manufacturing technique will help set the standard for AR lower manufacturing.” As well as cost savings, this unique manufacturing process produces weight savings—the total weight of the Omni-Hybrid stripped lower is 8 ounces, about a half-ounce lighter than a traditional aluminum AR lower.

Test 1: Drop Test

Test 2: Hang Test

Test 3: Crush Test

Have you ever built your own AR from the ‘lower’ up? Would you use a polymer lower? Share your experiences with us in the comment section.

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Comments (21)

  1. YES! I build AR-15’s from stripped poly lowers(ATI and BUSHMASTER are best). I mean REALLY high end stuff costing ME almost 2k each. They shoot SO well. Imagine this…an 18 inch fluted SS barreled AR-15 with a Weaver 1-3 scope, Quick Throw lever, and medium rise light weight mount, ambi EVERY control, Geissele 3 gun trigger, PRI brake…total weight with out magazine an unbelievable 5.9 lbs. It has an amazing 15 full inches of fore arm too! Ha, ha. That is the clincher…total weight on that only 6.5 ounces(AP Customs Carbon Fiber)
    This is a tack driving ultra light weight 3 gun with an adjustable gas block, (Block and tube are MELONITE) and a Nib coated 3.5 ounce aluminum carrier, AR Performance melonited bolt. Gas is tuned for very very light recoil and ZERO muzzle rise. Using a Bushmaster poly upper too. Other parts:Badger ambi charging handle, Troy Melonite ambi mag release, BAD lever, melonite quick take down pins.
    Lower trigger guard is dremelled off and I milled in a Cobra Tactical lower trigger guard. I used my dremel as a hand milling tool and it worked just great.
    When you pick this up it feels so light and fantastic. VERY quick to move around for target acquisition…easy to maneuver to do anything. I have never seen anything close to this built yet.
    My MForgery with 14.5 Daniel Defense ulta light weight barrel mid 1:7 twist is just as cool and LIGHT.That has 5k rounds, and is an AA piston gun. Both my DI and my piston gun will eat and cycle ANY kind of ammo 100% reliable.They say you cant with light weight bolts. Not true…just need the right buffer and spring combo or a JP captured spring.

  2. @Namvet71: In Galvanization, Zinc is used as a surface protecting agent…It corrodes as a sacrificial anode so that steel doesn’t. It is specifically there TO CORRODE.
    It is therefore my opinion that if the lower has any metal exposed that it will degrade much quicker than a standard lower (this is relative and is still measured in ten’s of thousands of rounds).

  3. Yes I build from the lower up…..my opinion the only way to go.
    Sorry to say I don’t see me buying one of these….the aluminum lowers have been battle tested and proven for years. The price of this new lower is great at about half the price of a traditional lower but for me the $50 savings isn’t worth trusting my life to a lower that hasn’t been proven over time…..and at only a half oz difference I’m not sure I see the advantage. I will say hats off for the effort and I am a fan of your other products and use them.

    Wishing you continued success…..

  4. Would like to see another crush test where the rear wheels go over lower as well seeing most the weight is on the rear of the forklift.

  5. Exactly what kind of metal is it that is visible on the inside of the buffer tube area? (Just wondering, because zinc is highly susceptible to corrosion).

  6. Mike, unfortunately that listing is for the old poly lower. The new one says Hybrid on it and looks different.

  7. i used a new frontier poly lower on my first build aside form the usual shaving in the safety and bolt catch pin hole fit excellent under my custom built upper. no play between the receivers what so ever.Definitely get a few if the are attractively priced like their predecessor.

  8. I just today finished my first build (it’s also my first AR). It was an AT Omni poly lower for $39 that convinced me to start a build. To keep cost down, I went with a “franken-gun” – no intentional parts match. A no-name upper for $88, an ER Shaw barrel (16″ 1/7 twist). Various lower and upper parts, and I splurged on Magpul MOE furniture.

    First build short stroked, wouldn’t eject. Some tinkering got it to eject, but wouldn’t load from any of the mags (Magpul PMag 30’s). Someone suggested a better-then-$16 gas block, so I got a $24 DPMS block. That took it back to not ejecting. Looking at the fouling on the barrel at the vent, the block was too far forward. I removed the handguard cap so the block could be centered over the vent; worked like a champ — with certain ammo.

    With the cap gone, my $16 quadrail wouldn’t work. I went to the local gunshow today and got a mid-length UTI skinny free float rail. I was leery of uninstalling/reinstalling the barrel, but the UTI nut went on easy. She works well now, altho some ammo won’t feed from the mags, still.

    All told, I spent around $700 for the gun, and another $150 for tools, etc. I haven’t gotten to test fire and sight it in yet. Maybe tomorrow.

  9. Actually went looking at a local gun show in DFW area today but I guess these aren’t quite in market yet. I did see the older ATI poly lowers for 39.00 to 59.00 which I think is an amazing price for an AR lower. I decided to wait for the new Hybrid, but this is definitely going to make me kick off a new build.

  10. I have built and shot projects on noveske, spikes, and zombie (a one off out of virginia). Then, for s&g’s I picked up an ATI lower because they were so cheap. I was surprised at how well everything went together. The ATI was snug in fit when assembling internal parts but did not require any sanding for the CMMG parts kit. However I was most impressed how well it paired to mill spec uppers. My spikes lower needed an accuwedge to minimize play but the ATI was snug with zero gaps when paired to a bravo company upper. I have test fit to colt, noveske and stag uppers without any problem but the bravo had the best match. My favorite to shoot all day at the range is my ATI with a pinned 14.5 upper. It’s light, fast and accurate at close ranges.

    Assembly with the ATI is great for a first timer because it is more forgiving in certain ways. Specifically if you slip installing those tough roll pins, the solid surface doesn’t show scrapes like a cerakote or phosphate coated aluminum lower can.
    The only downside I have seen is a resistance by some enthusiasts to embrace the technology. That can hurt if you try to trade or sell later. However I am very happy with my ATI.
    When looking at most bang for your buck it’s hard to beat an ATI.

  11. I use poly lowers. I love them for the cost. It doesn’t make me or my gun feel better to know I have a aluminum lower under there! Poly all the way. Would like to see consistent milling though, have had to open up holes for parts to fit. Mostly the front pin or just cut the spring.

    Not with this one though, just with other brands.

    Very interested in these now

  12. I will definitely be buying one of these as soon as possible.
    I’ve built several AR’s from the ground up or had parts of them built and finished the rest. I’ve used spikes, DPMS, Fulton Armory, and Del-Ton. There are slight difference but they are all basically the same. I’ve stayed away from the full polymer lowers but I think this hybrid could be a real game changer.

    Here is a video of my Fulton Armory 308 build. They also make .225/5.56 lowers as well
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roJUoklIn10

    Here is my latest AR 15 build with Spikes lower and Daniel Defense upper.
    I did a 3 part series on this build, and the first in series shows every part you need to build a compete rifle. A good watch if you are thinking of putting together a first rifle.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv4PXfeMTqQ

  13. I like it! Now if they can only figure out how to get the price of an upper to where us non-government employees can afford them!

    My ideal upper: 18″ to 22″ medium barrel. Wylde chambered, 1 in 8 twist. Standard handguard, low profile gas block with short rail, flat top receiver with rail. Now, why does this have to sell for more than a whole Ruger Mini-14? Why does an AR-15 in .22 cost more than two or even three Ruger 10-22s? Why doesn’t someone make an AR-15 in .22 magnum?

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