Even regular readers of The Shooter’s Log can’t read or respond to all of the comments, so we have started a new weekly feature that will recap a sampling of the most active, interesting, or on occasion, randomly selected comments from the previous weeks. Feel free to respond with your two cents at the bottom of this article or by clicking the story link and adding it directly to the discussion.
Reader Comments From Previous Weeks
So that is what we know from our side, which is great to know. However, how will officers react when you refuse to talk to them in the first scenario? Do *they* know what our rights are and what they are allowed to do under the auspices of the law?
.410 shotguns are a must in teaching gun handling & shooting. If you give your 12 gauge to a 98 pound skinny & lengky kid, you will develope a flinch. 6-7 year olds can handle .410 comfortably and hitting the target isn’t as critical at that age as gun handling. Work your way up to bigger guns. Hand me down guns also create length of pull issues – short dad gives tall kid his favorite 12 gauge with 13” LOP and the the kid is 5’11” needing a 14.5” reach, he’ll shoot high and dad will yell at him for wasting ammo. 28ga.& 20ga. are fine guns for hitting game birds. One problem I’ve seen with kids getting into guns is, parents expect somebody else to teach it on one Saturday for 1 hour class while they go off, as usual, doing their own thing. They buy one box of ammo and focus on the target. Start when they’re younger, gauges and calibers for their height and weight, shoot 1000 rounds in the afternoon and focus on THEM! Cultivate the earth replenishing it with lead & aiming will develop naturally when they want to hit it.
I have gone through 5 or 6 carry firearms over the years. I finally settled on a G19. I wasnt sure about the weight initially, but the purchase of a good carry belt solved that.
Obviously, reliability is a huge factor. Additionally, I like the simplicity of the firearm. No doodads, whoozits or gizmos hanging off it. It just works.
So, to answer the author’s starter question. G19 (which I consider full size), compact PT 111 G2 Taurus, sub… well, not sure that it falls into the sub realm, but the Kahr PM9.
Why is Ruger never mentioned? All the ones mentioned are originally based or made overseas.
I’ve an LC9 (great small gun) and a Ruger American which IMHO are superior choices to yours.
Full size-Smith and Wesson M&P 9. Same features as the Glock 17, but more ergonomic and better sizing for hands than the 17.
Mid size/Compact-little brother Smith and Wesson M&P 9C (compact). About the same size as the perennial favorite Glock 19, same features as the full size.
Sub-Compact-Kahr CM9. Less than an inch wide, very easy to hide in a smooth shooting 9mm. Long, smooth trigger is a great safety feature for a gun with little room for any other safety.
For a full size I would go with CZ 75. Compact, I like SigPro 2022. Sub compact I would go with Walther CCP.
Both 9mm Parabellum and .45 ACP scored at or near the top of the charts for effectiveness in many tests, so both are valid choices, and most of the arguing is really just gun dudes having fun talking to one another.
But to break it down just a bit further, 9mm is, on average, a bit better penetrator, and .45 ACP will, on average, cause somewhat bigger wounds on less protected targets. 9mm lets you carry more rounds at the same weight, which is important for militaries seeking a “force multiplier” and is never less than useful, but is not always the most important concern for a civilian using the handgun in a self-defense capacity. Many of the best firearms are now available in both 9mm and .45 ACP variants, so platform is not always determinant either.
.357 SIG is technologically superior to 9mm Parabellum (as we would expect, being much newer) and will likely supplant it some day. Right now, it is expensive, but is by far the most ballistically consistent handgun round available. .40 S&W, on the other hand, suffers from a much higher rate of case failure than the other options discussed here, and should be avoided.
“Shoot whatever pleases you” is not really a recommendation, but it is what people will do anyway. Individuals should practice as described in the article, explore their accuracy, recoil tolerance, etc., and draw informed conclusions as to which caliber is working best for them.
I like .44 Special myself ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡° )
After owning several AR rifles in 223/556, I finally settled on the Rock River Arms ATH. The DB15 is certainly a nice rifle..have handled but not shot one, but the ATH is great. I’ve shot probably 20 different rounds thru it and the ammo I’ve found most consistent and most accurate is the Hornady 55 gr SP. Others are good, and more than acceptable, but in this rifle the Hornady is best. If i do my part, 1/4″, 5 shot spreads are common at 100 yrs. Rifle is equipped with Nilon optics, 4-14, and this is my predator and pig gun, #1. Will be interested if others like that Hornady bullet also.
I’m a bit speechless at the method that you’ve outlined above. No disagreement on the 85% capacity being a good rule of thumb for the sweet spot, but you can’t equate water and powder by weight, and then assume that they occupy the same volume. That is very, very wrong…especially when using a coarse-grained or stick powder.
Do this: Take a fired case, doesn’t really matter what caliber. Leave the spent primer in, to seal the flash hole and weigh it to get the empty weight. Fill the case completely with water and weigh it again, to get the weight of the water. Let’s say, for sake of discussion, that the case holds 50gr of water. Now dump the water from the case and dry it out to make sure no water remains. Measure out 50 grains of something like IMR 4064 and try to fit it in your case. I guarantee you, it will not fit. And if you use your formula above and try to fit 40 grains, you might get it in there…maybe. It still may not fit, but even if it does you are likely outside of that 80-90% window that you’re talking about.
Obviously, with a finer-grained powder like the Winchester ball powders, that will come closer to matching your water measurement. But many powders do not, and the method you’ve outlined isn’t a valid one to use.
I have to agree with Brian. Using weight of water as equivalent to a weight of powder is like equating 1 lb of lead to 1 lb of feathers. What you need is not a density measure, but a volumetric measure.
My suggestion would be to load an empty case with the desired charge of powder, then measure the distance from the top of the cartridge less the seating depth of the bullet to the top of the powder charge. Then calculate the empty volume of the case with the bullet seated. These measurements will not be precise, since the volume of the case needs to take into account case wall thickness and the volume of the neck on a necked cartridge. Still, the errors should be about the same for both measurement.
Then, you are in a position to calculate the ratio of the volume occupied by the powder to the volume of the empty cartridge with the bullet seated.
~Jim in Conroe
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