We’ve chosen the sometimes twisting path to becoming handloaders because we want to improve on-target results. The difference between a handloader and a reloader? My wise-crack answer, which is honest, is that handloaders start with new brass… We’re not about to shoot factory ammo.
The rounds had been assembled in 1998. They fired without any type of problem and with good accuracy. I realize that there have been advances in bullets and powder, but for what I am doing these loads remain ideal.
In the firearms world, I see much hype and overstatement. As such, the real article with genuine performance is often under appreciated.
The new M1000 mechanical scale provides right- or left-handed operation and a wealth of big-time features at an affordable price.
For the rifleman primarily interested in hunting, there are a number of inexpensive but useful bolt-action rifles. These include the Mossberg ATR, Ruger American, and the Savage Axis. Some are offered in a package with an affordable rifle scope. I have fired most and find them worth the money—and some worth a little more.
Bear with me! We’ll get started on the process of handloading next time when I talk about setting up a sizing die. But before that, it’s good to keep in mind what we’re dealing with, and that is a cartridge case, and also what happens to it during firing, which is what we’re setting out to remedy when we reuse it.
In my reloading article for The Shooter’s Log, I gave a caution about respecting one of the differences between semi-auto and bolt-action rifles, and that was with respect to propellant burn rates. The summary reason for the warning is that different rate propellants will “peak” at different areas as